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What is acne?

Anita Amin
12, Dec 2024

Acne is a very common skin condition where you get blackheads, whiteheads and pus-filled spots. It can be mild with a few spots on your face, neck, back and chest to a more severe skin problem that can cause scarring and reduce self-esteem.

Acne typically starts during puberty. For most, it tends to go away by your early to mid-twenties but it can continue longer. It can also develop for the first time in your late twenties and later.

Acne in adult women is common. It is also more common for adults with acne to be women, though men can suffer from acne too. Adult female acne occurs after the teen years, typically after the age of 25 and can extend well over 50. It can even last after menopause.

Symptoms of Acne

Acne can be a mixture of:

  • oily skin
  • blackheads
  • whiteheads
  • red spots
  • pus-filled pimples

Sometimes, larger and deeper bumps called nodules or round lumps often filled with fluid or pus called cysts may develop. Your affected skin may feel hot, painful and tender to touch.

Acne can scar or mark your skin, particularly if you have nodules and cysts. Scars can be raised and lumpy called hypertrophic or keloid scars, or indented called pitted or atrophic scars.

Acne can also leave your skin discoloured. It may be hyperpigmented and darker than your usual skin colour or hypopigmented and lighter.

It’s best to get medical help early on to help prevent scarring.

Causes of Acne

What causes acne?

  • Genetics – if acne runs in your family, you are
    more likely to suffer with it.
  • Hormones – most women have worsening of their
    acne in the PMS part of their menstrual cycle.
  • Androgen (male) hormones – (including hormone
    imbalances in conditions such as Polycystic Ovary Syndrome) cause increased
    sebum output and sebaceous gland activity. Enhanced sebaceous gland receptor
    sensitivity and conversion of other hormones into androgen hormones in the pore
    itself may also play a role.
  • Increased presence of the acne causing bacteria
    called P. acnes (now called C. acnes).
  • Follicular hyperkeratinization – the medical
    term for clogged and plugged pores. These can be microscopic plugs, macroscopic
    plugs such as blackheads, and even small closed cysts.
  • A change in the actual chemistry of sebum lipid
    composition.
  • Inflammation in the skin.  

How is Acne Diagnosed?

A dermatologist can easily recognise acne by the appearance of the spots and their distribution on your face, neck, chest or back.

Skin Assist offers a simple online photo consultation to help diagnose your acne. You can upload up to four photos and a description. A consultant dermatologist will review this information and respond within 24 hours.

We also offer online acne video consultations with UK-trained consultant dermatologists and dermatology specialists. It is the best option if you have persistent acne and are seeking an in-depth solution and a personalised medically-proven treatment and management plan. 

With an online acne video consultation, you receive first-class acne advice remotely in the comfort of your own home.

Your Three Step Acne Treatment plan

Step 1: Treat the acne-causing bacteria called P. acne (C. acnes)

The most effective way to do this using skin care is with medicated benzoyl peroxide. This non-prescription ingredient controls the acne-causing bacteria better than prescription antibiotics, which have led to bacterial resistance and put you at risk of gram-negative folliculitis (a skin infection that resembles acne).

It is usually recommended to apply benzoyl peroxide twice daily to prevent new breakouts where the skin is prone to pimples. You can also spot-treat pimples after they occur with benzoyl peroxide. 

Benzoyl peroxide can lighten bed sheets, so white linen is recommended. It is, however, safe for use on the skin.

Step 2: Fight blackheads and follicular hyperkeratinization (plugs in your pores that lead to pimples)

To do this, use keratolytics. Keratolytics break up clumps of dead skin cells. Medicated keratolytics include salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide. Neutrogena Clear and Defend moisturiser contains salicylic acid.  

Step 3: Use products that fight collagen loss to counter premature skin ageing.

The best proven collagen-boosting ingredient to incorporate into your skincare routine is a retinoid. Retinoids also help prevent acne by increasing the rate of skin cell turnover, helping to unblock pores and the glands that produce sebum. They help to exfoliate pimples that have already formed and, as an anti-inflammatory, decrease the inflammation that’s part of acne. 

Our prescription retinoids are stronger than retinoids  that you buy without a prescription.

Next steps if things don’t improve

1. For women, the contraceptive pill can help. Kids and men can try oral antibiotics. For these internal treatments, it’s time to see your GP or book in for an online video consult with us. 

2. If there is no improvement after 2 to 3 months, we can definitely help you in our online specialist acne clinic because you may need a specialist vitamin A based medicine that only a consultant dermatologist can prescribe. This is because it’s a powerful treatment and also the most effective  treatment that dermatologists have. It works by attacking acne at all stages, it stops follicle plugging and it shrinks the oil producing glands. It’s so effective that it cures acne in 95% cases if you follow our acne cure program. Although it’s really effective, it can have potential side effects so we monitor you carefully throughout our program. You will need around three consultations during your course which is usually 6 months duration.

Booking a consultation is easy. Dr Anna Ascott, specialist dermatologist and acne specialist,  will guide you through your treatment options and discuss  isotretinoin if you have scarring from your acne.

Further information can be obtained from https://www.bad.org.uk/pils/isotretinoin/

For a full course of isotretinoin, you will need around four video consultations to check safety during the course. In particular, that you have no risk factors for mental health issues as rarely isotretinoin can worsen depression.

Video consultations for acne are at a reduced fee of £185 and include the cost of a private prescription. The cost of isotretinoin itself from the chemist is around £500 to £700 for a full course depending on the chemist you use. However, we can supply it to you for around £100 for a full six-month course. If you live further afield, delivery can be arranged for £7. You need to arrange blood tests with your GP before and after treatment, which we can advise about in the video consultation. 

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